Swap Cefalu's buzzy seaside scene for the simple pleasures of hill-top towns and farm estates in the Madonie Mountains. The beaches and coastline blur into olive groves and rural valleys as your bus makes the scenic journey to Castelbuono in the late afternoon. Mirco, an expert local guide, explains the significance of the town, “Castelbuono has always been a crossroads between the mountains and the sea — which is why you'll see so many layers here, from Norman walls to Baroque churches, all wrapped into a living town.”
You'll have around an hour and a half to wander the narrow stone streets, where every archway frames another impressive view of this Medieval town. Among the palazzos and historic churches, though, the crowning glory of Castelbuono has to be the 14th-century fortress, Castello dei Ventimiglia. It's now open as a museum, so as well as taking time to appreciate the slower pace of the town and perhaps grabbing a gelato, you can take a look around the castle's exhibits of timeworn treasures and contemporary art collection. Mirco adds, “The Ventimiglia family built this castle to control the mountain routes. Today, it tells a very different story – from ancient archaeology to modern Sicilian artists.”
In the evening, you'll head to Tenuta Luogo Marcese, a rural, agritourism-style farm estate. Sit on the terracotta-tiled terrace and enjoy a relaxed three-course dinner of seasonal Sicilian dishes, all prepared with local ingredients. Best of all, dinner comes with views of the sun setting over the Madonie hills.
